 Santa Cruz and Oriente |
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| SAMAIPATA AND THE NATIONAL PARK OF AMBORO |
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 The Inca fortress of Samaipata |
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Open everyday from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Located 5 kilometers from Samaipata, on the road coming from Santa Cruz, El Fuerte is the most important archaeological complex the in the Oriente. At an elevation of about 1 890 meters above sea level, the site marks the meeting point between the Andean hillsides and the start of the Oriental plains, constitute the most important pre-historical monument of the Americas. Figures and shapes have been sculpted in one and only massive block of reddish stone. It is not permitted anymore to climb the monument due to the friability of the terrain to avoid deteriorating the site (some of the material has already been completely erased). El Fuerte is crossed at its center by two vertical cuts. The Indians of the area say that in the past, Fire Horses used it as a take-off strip to ascend to the sky. This legend has furnished the material to the strange theories of Erick Von Danycken about the presence of extra-terrestrial being in Bolivia.
The archaeological site was occupied by the Inca who used it as their most advanced post of the Empire, of which it marked the frontier until its fall. It was the administrative center in charge of maintaining the order of the Inca in the region, but its principal function was keeping at bay the frequent invasion attempts of the Guarani Indians. This impenetrable fort offers amongst other things, the largest sculpted stone in the world.
To be truthful, no one knows the origin of this site. Did it belong to the Moxo culture? Hard to say. While you ponder the origins of the universe, don’t forget to enjoy the magnificent view over the serrania of volcanoes of the Amboro Park. If you have time and some hiking shoes, try to climb the mountain right across from El Fuerte. You will then be able to admire in its entire splendor, this amazing pre-historical piece of a length of 650 meters and a whith of 200 meters! This site was, in the pre-Inca times, and still is the contact point between the Amazon, the Andes and the Chaco.
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| Amboro National Park |
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- Located in the “elbow of the Andes” (place where the oriental Andes take a the direction towards the South).
- Warm climate in its lower part and more humid in its higher mountainous part. The variety in elevation brings a wide biological diversity.
Flora: 2961 known species. Giant trees of the rain forest, Mara, American caoba, pines, numerous varieties of wild orchids (400!). This natural resort covering 637.000 acres is comprised between 280 and 3200 meters above sea level. It abounds in a varied fauna, with amongst other 820 species of birds accounted for, mammals such as the Andean bear, the jaguar, the puma and diverse species of monkeys, some of them unique in the world (and also 105 species of snakes, 73 species of bacteria, etc…). Bolivia possesses 13 different ecosystems (Costa Rica for example only possesses 9). The Amboro Park alone has 7…
This area in the county of Santa Cruz starts near the village of Samaipata, near Yapacani. The excursions leaving from Samaipata offer the best scenery, such as the Cordillera of the Volcanoes and the lake of the volcanoes, located halfway between Santa Cruz de la Sierra and Samaipata. The park is the transition point between the Andes, the Yungas of Cochabamba and Santa Cruz, the Chaco, The Amazon and the plains of Santa Cruz. Viewed from an airplane, on the regular line from Sucre to Santa Cruz, we can see the degree of difficulty that implanting a “foco guerrilero” implied. This is how the Che and his “companeros” were captured in a ditch during the so-called Yuri ambush. |
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| Excursions from Samaipata |
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- Rain forest (“Bosque de helechos gigantes”): half-day or day trip. From the village of El Yunga (one hour away from Samaipata), a track takes us to the old growth forest untouched since recorded times. The exceptional humidity level allowed some very ancient species to survive until today. The place looks like a magical forest, ideal for some scenes of “The Lord of the Rings”. Birds are numerous and we can also see monkeys. A few trails cross this almost unique ecosystem (shared only with New Zealand).
- Multi-day observation circuit of the fauna and flora.
- An interesting itinerary is to travel by foot (or on horseback) from Samaipata to El Fuerte. A 6-hour walk follows the crests in a mountainous and forested environment. The viewpoints over the surrounding areas are the highlights of this trip. It also allows you to arrive directly at the ruins of El Fuerte
- Sarrania de los volcanes, at the Southern border of the Amboro park. We access this area of the park via the village of Bermejo (located at 70 km from Santa Cruz, on the road to Samaipata, or at 45 km from Samaipata). From there, a trail takes you to the village of “los volcanes” where you will receive a warm welcome from the dozen family living there and forming the heart of the development project.
- This part of the park deserves to be classified amongst the nicest trekking area in Bolivia. The part between Bermejo and “Los volcanes” is the most impressive, mixing a mountainous environment with a tropical touch. Numerous Río crossings take us eventually to our destination of the day. The valley we follow is overhung by huge cliffs, in some places reaching a few hundred meters in height. The place is gorgeous. If you like hiking, it would be a shame not to spend a few days exploring the surroundings of “Los volcanes” even if the lodging conditions are rudimentary (there are some showers…). It is always difficult to leave this haven of peace; so far away from everything else we have seen in Bolivia.
- Berjemo. The small village of Berjemo, located at 45 km from Samaipata, is the departing point towards the serrania de los volcanes and the laguna de los volcanes. The scenery to either place are gorgeous. The laguna can also be reached by car.
- Waterfall de Cuevas. Located 20 km from Samaipata, in scenery reminiscent of the movie “the Mission”, this destination is not well known but is worth the detour. |
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| The route of Che |
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Count 3 or 4 days to retrace the steps of the Argentinean revolutionary and his guerilleros. “If you cringe every time something unjust happens in the world, then you and me are companions” --Ernesto “Che” Guevara.
In November 1995, the general of the Bolivian armed forces, Mario Vargas, gave a scoop to the New York Times: He knew the exact location where the remains of Che Guevara are buried. The most famous guerillero of history, may well have been found, supposedly buried under the landing strip of the village of Vallegrande. Media from all over the world run there… but nothing is found, no trace of the corpse. Our general possibly wanted to gain international notoriety, and he surely succeeded! But he was not the only one. Between 1995 and 1997, several books dedicated to Che appeared on the market. Che became a myth, whether he wanted it or not, during his life, as well as for the 30 years following, to the thousands of unaccounted-for victims of oppositional military dictators.
His assassination, October 8th 1967, marked the end of an era. A short time before May 1968 and the revolution of the Beatles, the death of the most peculiar South American since Bolivar Marti, announced the end of the idealism of the 60’s. Che wanted to see the birth of “the new man”, while he himself was already one. The myth of Che, his commercialization and even his sanctification by the inhabitants of the Southeastern part of Bolivia, show that he was a remarkable human being. He was first and foremost a real revolutionary who wanted to change the world. He knew that it is here, in the New World, at the heart of the Andean and central-American community traditions, in the America of the Jesuit Missions and of the Mexican, Cuban and Bolivian revolutions that Utopia has maybe a better chance to become a reality. This explains his choice of Bolivia as a center of his revolution.
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